Bokmuchun 복무춘

With only four tables in this old-school Chinese spot, numbered tickets go out, waits of an hour or more are common at both lunch and dinner, and it closes early once ingredients run out. The jjamppong, a spicy seafood noodle soup, starts with vegetables and seafood seared over high heat for sweetness before going into a vegetable broth. That searing keeps the heat clean and light. Deungsim tangsuyuk, sweet-and-sour fried pork loin, wears a batter as light as a puffed rice cracker, fried in clean oil.