Santa Lucia 산타루치아

It sits on the 42nd floor of Acro Tower B in Pyeongchon, high enough that clear days reach all the way to Lotte World Tower in Jamsil. Come in a little before sunset and you watch the daytime view turn into the night skyline without leaving your seat. Window tables are close to impossible without a booking, but calling on the day often still turns up an inside table. Of the pastas, the kabocha squash cream is less cloying than the carbonara. The Napoli course for two runs from soup and salad through to dessert and tea, with staff explaining each wine as it comes.