Bapboda Guksi 밥보다국시

Eojuk kalguksu blends finely ground freshwater fish with perilla seed and perilla leaves, and rice comes tucked in among the noodles. It recalls chueotang loach soup, ends with a light chili kick and is not salty. Some regulars order nothing else, while others found a burnt taste and left disappointed. On a first visit it is worth adding the clear kalguksu made with clam broth, or kongguksu in cold soy milk. The shop next door sells kkwabaegi twisted doughnuts, and people pick up a few on the way out.