Bak Seobang Sikdang 박서방식당

This is a drivers' cafeteria, so the table fills edge to edge with side dishes, and in the middle sit saeujang and jeonbokjang, shrimp and abalone in sweet-salty soy. A fish called namakseu comes out crisp, almost like a breaded fish cutlet. The kitchen closes early once ingredients run out. Side dishes are refilled, yogurt and sulppang (makgeolli-leavened steamed bread) follow the meal, and a handful of candy comes with the bill.