Abai Hoeguksu 아바이회국수

Flounder sliced bone-in, Japanese sekoshi style, covers more than half of every bowl of hoeguksu (cold noodles with spicy raw fish) and hoedeopbap (raw fish over rice). Seating is limited in this small spot near Sokcho port, open since the early 2000s. Diners add their name to a list at the door and are better off waiting nearby, because calls sometimes come sooner than expected. The seasoning stays mild and homey, and the occasional thick bone is part of the cut. A side of abai sundae, a stuffed sausage, arrives with mumallaengi, dried radish strips.