Yumyeong Sutbul Dakgalbi 유명숯불닭갈비

The potato pancake splits opinion completely. Some call it the best thing on the table, huge, thick and crisp like toasted brown-rice nurungji; others found it bland and hard and missed the chewy kind. The makguksu gets no such argument, and several diners rank the cold-broth version, made with house-pulled buckwheat noodles, as the best they have had. The thick-cut Korean chicken arrives already seared and finishes over charcoal at the table; brushing on a second coat of spicy sauce midway and grilling again gives it a different flavor.