Yongmun Haejangguk 용문해장국

A haejangguk (hangover soup) institution inside Yongmun Market in Yongsan-gu, Seoul, operating for over 55 years across three generations. Alongside Changseongok and Hanseongok, it is counted among the three legendary haejangguk restaurants of Yongsan. The restaurant runs in two distinct shifts with entirely different menus: the morning session (5 AM to around 2 PM) and the evening session (5 PM to 11 PM). The morning centerpiece is haejangguk - ox spine bone broth simmered with seonji (blood curd), dried napa cabbage, and doenjang. The broth is notably clean and mild compared to heavier styles, yet builds in umami with each spoonful. Pulling tender meat from the spine bones is part of the ritual, and crisp kkakdugi complements the soup well. Seonji can be omitted upon request. The evening shift does not serve haejangguk at all, instead offering suyuk (boiled beef slices), braised bone stew, hobak-myeon-jeon (pumpkin noodle pancake), and jaengban-yuk-myeon (platter noodles) - dishes oriented toward drinking. The suyuk is served on a burner with leek and dogani (knee cartilage), keeping it warm throughout the meal; the meat is tender with no off-flavors whatsoever. A unique kkak-bap (fried rice) option makes this a standout choice for fried rice enthusiasts. Set within the lively atmosphere of Yongmun Market, this long-running establishment spans the full arc of a day - from pre-dawn hangover recovery to evening drinks. Closed on the 2nd and 4th Monday mornings, and Sunday evenings.