Yongma Haejangguk 용마해장국

Fat is skimmed from the beef neck-bone broth until, like Pyongyang naengmyeon stock, almost none shows on the surface, yet each spoonful is savory and refreshing. Seonji, coagulated beef blood, is pudding-soft, and the bowl also holds bean sprouts, cabbage greens and a spoonful of minced garlic. The shop long served only this one haejangguk, hangover soup, until a meat-only version without seonji was added. First-timers get a quick explanation of how to eat it: taste the broth, then season with pepper or chili oil. Tucked deep in a Mangu-dong residential lane, it has no lot of its own, though on Sundays a nearby elementary school lot is usable.