Handonggil Gamjatang Sinnae Bonjeom 한동길감자탕 신내본점

The broth in the ppyeo haejangguk, pork backbone soup, is savory rather than fiery, the cabbage greens soak it up without turning tough, and the seasoning runs a little salty. Kimchi, seokbakji radish kimchi and mild green peppers come on the side. Groups share gamjatang jeongol, a pot heaped with pork backbones, and finish with rice fried in the leftover broth. Doors stay open 24 hours, which makes it an early-morning or late-night stop. On New Year's morning, people coming down from the Bonghwasan sunrise form a line, and getting down the mountain early beats it. The shop has held this Sinnae-dong spot for about 20 years.