Yongdudong Jjukkumi 용두동쭈꾸미

In the Yongdu-dong octopus alley, this shop's sauce starts sweet and lets the chili heat climb with every bite. Jjukkumi-bokkeum, stir-fried baby octopus, is cooked briefly so it stays springy. Diners wrap it in a perilla leaf with bean sprouts, raw onion and a dab of mayonnaise or curry sauce to tame the spice. Rice is fried in the leftover sauce at the end, and adding cheese only at that stage keeps it from sticking to the pan.