Najeongsun Halmae Jjukkumi 나정순 할매 쭈꾸미

Simmered down on the griddle in a fiery sauce, the baby octopus stays springy instead of turning rubbery. Portions of jjukkumi bokkeum (spicy stir-fried octopus) are set as soon as the table sits down, one per person. Toss in plenty of garlic and wait until it softens; the sharp edge fades and the sauce turns rounder. Wrapping octopus with chilled cheonsachae noodles in a perilla leaf adds a cool crunch, and pickled rakkyo and carrot cut the heat between bites. Once the sauce reduces, staff stir fried rice into the pan, served with a mild doenjang stew. Takeout packs twice the octopus of a table portion, with no vegetables, and at home it needs a quick stir-fry over high heat to keep its texture. Tables are packed tightly in this Yongdu-dong alley shop, and the whole party must arrive before entering.