Yetgoeul Ssambap 옛고을 쌈밥

Yeontan jeyuk ssambap brings spicy stir-fried pork with a faint coal-briquette smokiness to wrap in leaves; yeontan sobulgogi ssambap does the same with beef bulgogi. Fresh pork belly and webfoot octopus versions come with the same spread of greens, and cheonggukjang, a pungent soybean stew, is a separate add-on. The ureong ssamjang that comes with every table, a dipping paste made with river snails, has nuts in it and tastes nutty rather than salty.