Yeongdeok Hoe Sikdang 영덕회식당

Bone-in slices of flounder and herring go under cucumber, onion, crown daisy, water parsley and sesame, then the owner tosses it all in a house chogochujang, a tangy chili sauce. Mak-hoe, this rough-cut raw fish salad, has come out of the same Chungmuro alley since 1988. Bites are wrapped in seaweed, and the leftovers get stirred into rice with sesame oil. Gwamegi (half-dried herring) and summer-only mulhoe are ordered separately.