Yeoksam-dong Bugeojip 역삼동북어집

Sit down and a stainless-steel tray of bugeo-jjim baekban, braised dried pollack with rice, lands in under three minutes, since it is effectively the only dish at this drivers' diner. The pollack stays chewy in a red chili broth that turns slightly sweet from onion at the finish. Rice and broth refills are free, and chilled cucumber soup cools things between spicy spoonfuls.