Ya Shanghai 야상해

Sorongpo, the Korean name for xiaolongbao, go onto a spoon so the wrapper can be nicked and the hot broth sipped first. Shrimp dumplings show off springy shrimp, chive dumplings lean on chive aroma, and a little table chili oil on one edge works with either. Eohyang gaji, fish-fragrant eggplant, is crisp outside and soft inside under a sweet, salty and spicy glaze that stays restrained. That sauce pairs well with egg-and-shrimp fried rice, wok-fried until nutty, almost like scorched rice. Sacheon somyeon brings thin noodles in a red mala broth with a numbing edge.