Uyauya 우야우야

Daepae samgyeopsal, pork belly shaved paper-thin, has been grilled here in Janghang-dong, Ilsan, for more than 20 years. The slices are crisped on a griddle and wrapped with seasoned bean sprouts and scallion salad, and an order of meat brings fish-cake skewers, steamed egg, and rice cakes, potatoes and mushrooms for the griddle. Some longtime regulars skip cold noodles and kimchi stew and always order doenjang gukbap instead; the soybean broth is clean rather than musty, a fresh turn after the greasy pork.