Xiaobao Beef Noodles Jongno Bonjeom 샤오바오우육면 종로본점

Noodles are hand-pulled in an open kitchen in the Lanzhou style, in eight thicknesses from fine to broad. Thin strands slip down with the broth; thick ones give more chew. The beef broth is cooked with radish and topped with thin slices of shank, and asking the kitchen to hold the default chile oil lets you taste it clear first. Some bowls run salty, which argues for adding the pickled mustard stem and chile oil sparingly. Guobaorou, crisp sweet-and-sour pork, suits sharing, and the newer crab-shrimp noodles take a rich seafood turn from crab innards. Xiangla rousi, pork stir-fried with cilantro and pungent spices, works better with drinks than as a meal.