Sundeogi's Haemul Jangteo 순덕이네 해산물장터

The dol-muneo bokkeum is buried under mussels, and only once you clear them does the chewy rock octopus show, in a spicy sauce with a little char and the scent of perilla leaves. No reservations, so expect to wait at mealtimes, and the food takes a good while even after you sit. The hairtail braise is cooked down with radish and dried radish greens and uses almost no sugar, which can taste plain if you are used to sweet braises. Jeonbok-seongge-guk is a mild seaweed soup with sea urchin and abalone loosened through it.