Pungwon 풍원

Order the Hallasan fried rice and a staff member piles it into a mountain on the griddle while running through the story of how Jeju and Hallasan came to be. The patter is lively, and children tend to listen closely. Before the rice comes jumeollok, a marinated stir-fry cooked at the table, made with either hanchi squid or pork and ordered for two or more. The squid marinade is not sweet and a little sour, which can seem odd at first, but it comes together the longer it reduces. It sits right in front of the Haumokdong ferry landing, an easy first stop before picking up a rental car.