Pungnyeon Ppyeodagwi Haejangguk 풍년 뼈다귀해장국

Dried radish greens and chili oil turn the broth deep red, yet it tastes peppery and savory rather than fiery, and never muddy. Most people order ppyeo haejangguk, pork spine hangover soup; the other choice, ugeoji-tang with cabbage greens, is served only in the restaurant, not to go. The pork on the bones has some chew rather than melting softness, and many diners pick it off and stir it into the soup with rice. Crisp, cool kkakdugi suits the red broth. Open around the clock with about ten small tables, the shop sends more than half its orders out as takeout, which comes with extra soup instead of rice.