Namjeong Buil Gisa Sikdang 남정 부일기사식당

Jjamppong here has nothing to do with noodle soup: the name means octopus and pork mixed together, and it arrives as a pot of the two with heaps of scallions and onions in gochujang sauce. It looks fiery but tastes mild and slightly sweet rather than hot or salty. Bring it to a boil, let it reduce, then wrap it in lettuce or stir it into rice, though without the crumbled laver that used to come with it, the rice feels a little bare.