Keunjip Ppyeodaeinneun Jjamppong 큰집뼈대있는짬뽕

The Ppyeodae-inneun Jjamppong, whose name means jjamppong with backbone, tops a spicy seafood-noodle broth with pork spine bones boiled as for haejangguk, and between mouthfuls of noodles you pick meat off the bones. The broth runs hotter than Shin Ramyun yet stays clean rather than oily, and the house-pulled, rested noodles are springy. Glutinous-rice sweet and sour pork arrives as whole loin in a thick sticky-rice batter, with tongs and scissors for cutting it yourself. Large portions cost the same as regular and extra noodles and rice are free, which helps with the Korean-beef jajangmyeon because it runs small. Mealtimes bring a wait in the tiny shop, with little room to stand and awkward parking.