Joyeontan 조연탄

The aged pork arrives in thick slabs with the rind still attached, giving each bite both chewy skin and tender meat. Staff grill and cut it at the table, then feed you a piece by hand, dipped in pollock roe or hairtail-gut jeotgal. Anyone who would rather skip that should say so before the grilling starts. Solo diners are turned away, and evening waits can pass an hour.