Jinseong Sikdang 진성식당

Haemul maeun donkkaseu starts with a wide, thick cutlet fried to order, then smothers it in a gochujang sauce full of shrimp and squid. The heat is about that of a spicy instant ramen, and the sauce can be served on the side for dipping piece by piece. Cheolpan cheese donkkaseu, on a sizzling plate, is tender enough to split with chopsticks and comes topped with cheese and old-style cutlet sauce, easy going for children. Portions are big, and leftovers go home in containers sold at the counter.