Ogya Sikdang 옥야식당

A single dish, seonji gukbap (beef soup with coagulated ox blood and rice), has been served in this corner of Andong's Sinsijang market since 1965. Chunks of blood join plenty of brisket and shank, with radish, dried cabbage leaves and green onion; the broth looks like a thin yukgaejang but tastes clean rather than spicy. Minced garlic, chili flakes and pepper sit on the table for seasoning to taste. The napa kimchi carries jeppi, a Korean prickly ash with a tingling, citrusy aroma that divides opinion. Ask for no blood and it eats like a plain beef soup.