Jeil Sikdang 제일식당

The red dressing on the yukhoe bibimbap looks fiery but is not hot at all; pear, sesame seeds and sesame oil come through first. Vegetables outnumber rice, so the soft raw beef blends into the bowl rather than standing out, and anyone avoiding raw meat can have it cooked. The seonji haejangguk served alongside is a clear beef soup with blood curd, and hidden hot green chilies make it surprisingly spicy. It is an old restaurant tucked in a lane of Jinju Central Market, and you take your shoes off to sit on the floor.