Jaedu Sikdang 재두식당

The braised anchovy pot changes as you eat: it starts with plenty of light broth, then reduces until the seasoning clings thickly to the fish. Early on, spoon fish and broth onto rice in a lettuce wrap, the myeolchi ssambap way. Later, a little of the concentrated sauce goes a long way. Vegetables are grown by the owners and the soy and bean pastes are made in-house, and the owner explains at the table how to eat the dish. Winter spinach turns noticeably sweet, and a garlic-scape, scallion and squid pancake joins the spread. Rice is stir-fried in what is left of the sauce to finish.