Ilsan Gyoja 일산교자

For years this shop traded as Ilsan Kalguksu before renaming itself Ilsan Gyoja. Its bajirak kalguksu uses small but sweet clams, cleaned so no grit gets between your teeth, and the noodles are rustic and thick rather than springy. There is chicken kalguksu too, and the dumplings taste homemade. Weekend lunch waits run past 30 minutes, but ordering while in line means food arrives almost as soon as you sit, and an outdoor rest area has a coffee machine.