Ilsanbongi Kalguksu & Jjukkumi Bonjeom 일산봉이칼국수&쭈꾸미 본점

Finding the door takes a moment: the restaurant is in the basement of an apartment-complex shopping arcade. An order of bossam, tender boiled pork reminiscent of gabrisal (the cut near the neck), comes with baby napa, inner cabbage leaves and seasoned radish, plus either clam noodles or jjukkumi. The jjukkumi bokkeum, stir-fried small octopus, looks fiery but tastes fairly mild, with a light smoky note.