Hwangsan Naengmyeon 황산냉면

Finely chopped kimchi goes into the mul naengmyeon broth, giving these Hamhung-style cold noodles a fermented sourness and bits of cabbage that a clear broth lacks. Pickled radish, cucumber, pear and slices of pork top a generous tangle of chewy noodles. Hoe naengmyeon carries a spicy red sauce with raw fish, and a thin buckwheat pancake with crisp edges makes a warm bite between cold mouthfuls. The eobokjaengban, a shared platter of boiled meat and vegetables warmed in broth, uses different cuts from the usual version and comes with a dipping sauce; extra meat can be added to the small size. The long-running shop is near Olympic Park, with room for two cars out front.