Hwajeon Namwon Chueotang 화전 남원추어탕

The meal does not end with the soup: after chueotang, a ground-loach soup, you help yourself to apples, puffed-rice crackers popped fresh by the door, sweet potatoes roasted in-house, ice cream and coffee. A sign asks diners not to bag the crackers to take home. The soup itself is thick with outer cabbage leaves (ugeoji) and has a nutty, savory broth; extra ugeoji comes on request.