Hamdeok Haejangguk 함덕해장국

The sign says haejangguk (hangover soup), but what the kitchen makes is Vietnamese rice noodle soup. The yangji (brisket) bowl lands somewhere between Vietnamese and Korean tastes and rarely divides people, while the spicy chadol bowl is hot and sharp enough to be hard going for anyone weak on chili. Cilantro comes only if you ask, the noodle portions are small, and hungry diners order the large. Crisp fried jjajo spring rolls are the side.