Gyorae Heukdwaeji Bonjeom 교래흑돼지본점

The old building at the end of a Gyorae-ri village lane makes you hesitate at the door, but inside, staff grill Jeju black pork over table charcoal. Among the side dishes, the garlic-scape pickle isn't too salty and sits well between bites of fatty belly, and some wrap meljeot-dipped pork in pickled perilla leaves. A kimchi stew with plenty of pork, or mul-naengmyeon, finishes the meal. Dinner tables are hard to get without a reservation.