Gyeryugwan 계류관

A whole chicken comes to the table glossy from more than an hour over oak firewood. Inside the chamnamu neungi jangjak-gui is sticky rice cooked in water used to soak neungi and shiitake mushrooms, and the meat stays moist while the fat drains off. The skin turns crisp, and the rice inside tastes faintly sweet, a little like yakbap, the sweet sticky-rice dish. Dip it by turns in salted squid and herring-roe jeotgal, ssamjang or salt. Gizzard and scallion tempura and dak-modum-jeon, patties of minced thigh, heart, cartilage and other cuts, bring other parts of the bird to the table, while doenjang makguksu on house-made buckwheat noodles rounds out the meal. The shop sits inside Jungang Market, two minutes on foot from Sindang Station, and weekend queues form before opening.