Geumseong Haejangguk 금성해장국

Someori gukbap (beef-head soup with rice) is the only dish, and the one decision is regular or large. It comes with dadaegi chili paste already stirred in; ask them to hold it and you get the plain broth, clean with a faint peppery edge. If you keep the paste, a splash of the mild kkakdugi juice takes off its raw sharpness. The rice is soaked in broth toryeom-style, and by afternoon it is often sold out.