Geum Gogitjip Magok Bonjeom 금고깃집 마곡본점

A brass relief of a pig's hindquarters marks the facade, and diners wait on the first floor before eating on the second. Tables fill early in the evening, and a reservation spares you the wait. Pork comes half-grilled over charcoal, and staff finish it at the table. Deungsim deotsal, a cut from around the pork loin, goes best with Maldon salt and fresh wasabi, and the belly varies noticeably in fat from piece to piece. Salted oyster jeotgal and dressed scallion slivers sit beside the meat. For the meal itself there is brisket doenjang stew with pot rice, or yukhoe naengmyeon, house-made noodles topped with raw beef.