Gangnam Gyoja Bonjeom 강남교자 본점

Kimchi loaded with garlic, sharp and pungent, sits on every table and is refilled as often as you ask. Kalguksu here means thin, soft knife-cut noodles in a broth simmered from chicken bones. For heat, eolkeun kalguksu takes extra chili flakes well. The broth is rich with chicken savoriness yet finishes clean, with no gamey smell. Eolkeun sujebi has rough, hand-torn dough, tteokguk brings chewy rice-cake slices, and the mandu dumplings are folded in-house. Lunchtime brings a queue, and small groups may be asked to share a table. A little yogurt drink arrives when you finish.