Duoz 두오즈

Down a winding country lane between factories in Jangan-myeon, Hwaseong, a cafe and a restaurant share a courtyard garden. Kimchi jeongol is raw pork and kimjang kimchi (winter-made kimchi) boiled hard on a large griddle, and while it bubbles, the rice with stir-fried fish cake and seasoned bean sprouts tends to go first. Sottukkung samgyeopsal, pork belly on a cast-iron pot lid, cooks fast over the strong flame, so turn the heat down now and then; lettuce for wraps comes in small amounts. Lunch often fills with bookings, so call ahead, while evenings are usually quieter. The tables sit low, which gets hard on the back over a long meal.