Chilbo Nongwon 칠보농원

Grilling happens in a converted greenhouse fitted with a big stove and potted plants, a bit like lighting charcoal inside a botanical garden. There is only one dish, yuhwang saeng-ori sogeum-gui, salted fresh duck from sulfur-fed birds, which leaves quantity as the only decision; a 300g portion shrinks a lot on the charcoal, and tables end up ordering one per person. You grill the duck yourself on a charcoal rack, or ask the kitchen to pre-grill it if that feels like too much work. Sweet potatoes are buried in the brazier and come out toward the end of the meal, and the closing mung bean porridge is free, with refills.