Cheonjitgol Sikdang 천짓골식당

A whole slab of boiled five-layer pork belly arrives on a tall wooden cutting board with legs, the dombe, and the owner walks the room with a kitchen knife, slicing a little at a time as each table eats. The uncut part waits in warm broth so it stays hot, and each new cut shifts the balance of lean, fat and skin. Floor seating is tight, and tables fill in order of arrival with no reservations. Black or white Jeju pork are both offered; the base order is 600g of raw weight, with 300g additions. While slicing, staff walk diners through pickled onion, coarse salt, soy sauce and fermented anchovy sauce as dips. Momguk, a thick gulfweed soup with buckwheat flour, comes with the meat; dombe pork has been the only dish since 1992.