Yangyeon Hwaro Jongno 양연화로 종로

Three floors of tables near Jonggak and Insadong make room for large groups, and staff grill every order at the table. Corkage is free; Friday nights and year-end weeks need a reservation. Galmaegi-sal, the pork skirt cut, arrives pre-seasoned and goes well with aged kimchi, while samgyeopsal is thick and stays juicy. Premium hangjeongsal (pork jowl) is ordered on its own, separate from the Yangyeon assorted sets. Scallion salad, pink salt and wasabi sit alongside, and the meal ends with Korean-beef or seafood doenjang jjigae, spicy cold noodles or kimchi fried rice.