Wonjo Dukkebijip Bul Ojingeo 원조두꺼비집불오징어

Squid is stir-fried in a chili sauce over a bed of cabbage and garlic chives right on an iron pan, and it stays tender rather than rubbery while onion and cabbage add their own sweetness. Bul-ojingeo comes hot, medium or mild, and ojingeo samgyeopsal adds pork belly to the pan for two. Prices on the board are for two people, and the kitchen will make it hotter on request. Fried rice made in the leftover sauce can be ordered any time while the pan is still on the table, not only at the end. A cold seaweed soup on the side is sharply vinegary. This Yeonsinnae spot has held the same location for more than 30 years and carries the government's centenary store designation; tables are tight, the room is loud with drinkers, and the dish can be packed uncooked to take home.