Hoetjip Ulleungdo 횟집울릉도

Modeum mulhoe, the house cold raw-fish soup, fills a sweet-sour chilled broth with flatfish, abalone, octopus, sea cucumber, sea squirt and fresh vegetables, and the sugar never takes over. Once the seafood is gone, thin somyeon noodles or rice go into the leftover broth, and the rice soaks up more of it. Albap, rice with fish roe in a hot stone bowl, pops against the teeth and sits at the opposite temperature from the cold bowl. A solo diner is better served by hoedeopbap, raw fish mixed with rice, sauce and a heap of fresh vegetables. Adding a stew puts hot broth on the table too, and a large savory pancake comes with the side dishes. Sashimi outside of mulhoe is sold only in winter. Summer evenings bring long waits, and with no parking of its own, drivers use a nearby public lot.