Umyeon-dong Sonamujip 우면동소나무집

The cheonggukjang smell drifts through the dining room, but in the cheonggukjang dakbokkeumtang itself the pungent fermented soybean paste comes across as savory depth rather than funk. It looks like ordinary spicy braised chicken, yet the sauce is reduced thick and the chicken slips off the bone. The shredded-potato pancake that comes as a side is left unseasoned, for dipping into that sauce. Wide glass noodles or udon go in after the chicken, and a separately ordered bowl of rice gets fried in the pot to finish. Seating is limited in this converted house, so book by phone before going.