Tteuran 뜰안

High hanok ceilings keep the small Ikseon-dong tea house from feeling cramped, and the heated ondol floor makes it a warm stop in winter. The tea house was serving long before Ikseon-dong became a tourist area and has since been remodeled, with potted flowers at the entrance. Ssanghwa-cha, a dense herbal tea, carries a strong medicinal flavor, while iced omija, a sweet-tart berry drink, suits summer. Half the room is floor seating, which gets uncomfortable over a long stay, and gatherings can make it loud. Old-fashioned patbingsu comes in a rice-bowl-sized dish of well-cooked sweet red beans, small enough to share with tea. Flower teas such as plum blossom and magnolia sit beside mugwort rice cakes served with honey.