Tongsamguk Bonjeom 통삼국 본점

Fine scoring across the kkot-moksal, a pork neck cut, keeps meat that usually dries out as tender as beef. Staff season it and the thick fresh pork belly with salt and pepper and grill both alongside green onions. It opens for dinner only and a line forms before the doors open; leave a phone number at the counter and they call when your table is ready.