Taebaek Kalguksu 태백칼국수

The broth, anchovy and beef bone blended, is so mild that the kalguksu alone can taste plain; it only comes into balance with the spicy, salty Jeolla-style kimchi. That kimchi is quite salty, though, and goes on a little at a time. Soft noodles are heaped with ground beef, then seaweed flakes, sesame, scallions and egg. Open since 1980, the place has kept both floors looking much as they always have, and older staff who have been around a long time run the room.