Dongseo's Nakji Bonjeom 동서네낙지 본점

Bean sprouts fill most of the stone pan, with octopus and beef intestine scattered among them; anyone expecting heaps of octopus may be let down. What you get instead is a sweet-spicy red sauce soaked evenly into the sprouts, and once the pan is cleared, rice and seaweed flakes are fried in the leftover sauce, with a strong toasted-laver aroma. The sauce is milder than it looks: easy for people who struggle with spice, tame for those who love it.