Seogung 서궁

Run by ethnic Chinese owners since 1978, this Yeouido Chinese restaurant near Saetgang Station fries its gunmandu dumplings in thick wrappers until golden, crisp outside and juicy inside, though noticeably oily. The bokkeumbap fried rice skips smoky wok flavor in favor of firm, separate grains with a clean taste, and it arrives almost as soon as you sit down, in a large portion. A mild egg soup comes alongside, and refills are easy to ask for. Evenings get crowded and loud in the big hall, which makes a reservation sensible, and parking is ample. Groups tend to add ohyangjangyuk, five-spice braised pork, and old-style tangsuyuk with a clear sweet-and-sour sauce. The pork comes with cilantro, which the kitchen will leave out on request.