Sapdari Kalguksu 삽다리칼국수

Warm soybean broth over knife-cut noodles gives on-kong kalguksu a nutty, soft taste close to soy milk, plain enough to feel thin on its own. That is where the jikhwa ojingeo bokkeum comes in: squid stir-fried over open flame in a sweet-spicy sauce with a strong smoky edge, with a few noodles lifted from the broth and tossed through it. An off-menu jikhwa set bundles the soybean noodles, squid, big dumplings and a drink, and groups of three or more order the bossam set with aged-kimchi pork. In summer, cold kongguksu takes over.